Ingredients • Potatoes • Tips • Baking
March 2019
The potato might be the world's most democratic ingredient — cheap, filling and infinitely adaptable. But there's a whole world of difference between a floury Maris Piper and a waxy Charlotte, and knowing which to use when will genuinely transform your cooking.
Potatoes fall into two broad categories: floury (or mealy) and waxy. The difference comes down to starch content.
High starch content, dry and fluffy when cooked. These are your go-to for mash, roasties, baked potatoes and gnocchi. Varieties include Maris Piper, King Edward and Sebago. They break down easily, which is exactly what you want when you're mashing or making chips.
Low starch, creamy and firm — they hold their shape after cooking. Perfect for potato salads, gratins, aligot and boiling whole. Varieties include Kipfler, Charlotte, Jersey Royal and Nicola. Their flesh stays intact when sliced, which is why they're ideal for a French-style potato gratin.
Always parboil floury potatoes first until the outside just starts to break down (you'll see the edges look rough and fluffy). Drain, shake in the colander to roughen the exterior, then roast in very hot fat. That rough surface = maximum crispiness.
Never boil from cold water — start in cold salted water and bring to the boil together. Drain thoroughly and steam-dry before mashing. Warm your butter and cream before adding. Never use a food processor — it will activate the starch and turn your mash into wallpaper paste.
Cook waxy potatoes in well-salted water until just tender. Dress them while still warm — they'll absorb the dressing much better. Let them cool to room temperature before adding mayonnaise (if using) to prevent splitting.
Store potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place — never in the fridge. Cold temperatures convert starch to sugar, making them too sweet for savoury cooking and causing them to brown quickly when fried.
